The Hike

Day 11: Treyarnon Bay to Polzeath

Route
A very windy hike from Treyarnon Bay to Polzeath via Padstow and Rock, and the ferry between them. The water at Padstow was surprisingly calm. Visited Betjeman’s grave at St Enodoc’s – thought about England. After 90 minutes of solitude on a desolate section of coast ran into David Cameron – thought about England again. Good day for sea birds.
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Day 9: Porthtowan to Crantock

Route
A 15 mile hike from Porthtowan to Crantock. The first half through heritage mining country. I wish I’d been walking it with a geologist: the soils and stones change colour rapidly and intensely. Much of the coast path feels like a set for Star Trek: The Original Series. I passed YHA Perranporth where I’ve stayed previously as part of ‘The Listening Station’ residency and exhibition. Finished with the dunes at Perranporth, Holywell and Crantock: these are saints’ places, where sites of early Christianity are half lost to sand.
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Day 6: Sennen to Zennor


Route
A rugged 16 mile walk from Sennon Cove to Zennor Head, passing by Cape Cornwall, Pendeen Watch, and Gurnard’s Head, and the tin mines at Botallack, Levant and Geevor. Today was a calm day: cloudy and humid with distant winds turning to blazing sun early evening. Saw more choughs – they seem to be thriving in West Penwith. On the quieter stretches several lizards.
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Day 5: Mousehole to Sennen Cove

Route
A stunning day – from sunrise over Mount’s Bay to sunset over Sennen Cove (just beyond Land’s End). Swam at Pedn Vounder before sweeping round to face the Atlantic. On the horizon you could see the Scillies, tiny crumbs of Cornwall out in the ocean. And Choughs! I’ve never seen them on this stretch of coast before but got a good show today while passing some bemused German tourists who couldn’t understand my excitement.
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Day 4: Porthleven to Mousehole

Route
Setting off from Porthleven and finishing at Mousehole, today’s hike mainly covered Mount’s Bay and wheeled 240° round Cornwall’s mini Mont-Saint-Michel. In the first few steps of the day I saw in the distance the Scillonian leaving for St Mary’s, in my last few steps I saw it return. Blown away by the first half of the walk, especially around Rinsey, an area close to home but that we have rarely visited. Strong memories passing Prussia Cove. All day the big sun.  Continue reading “Day 4: Porthleven to Mousehole”

Day 3: Lizard Point to Porthleven

Route
A 17 mile belter from Lizard Point to Porthleven; the whole west coast of the Lizard Peninsula. Every time I’ve walked this stretch before I’ve seen the choughs – perhaps the high season traffic has driven them somewhere even more remote. From Kynance Cove to Mullion I didn’t see a soul – just a solitary glider which made me think of Lanyon. A good day for watching kestrels.
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Day 2: Porthallow to Lizard Point


Route
Another 18 mile day from Porthallow to Lizard Point, the southerly most point of the island of Albion. The first half is a quiet bit of coast. The mood was ominous; here are disused  quarries, grey beaches, M.O.D. sites.  The second half turns increasingly dramatic.  Great stacks of serpentine shelf The Channel, especially after Lankidden. Both parts showed amazing wildlife. Camped at Lizard, The Lizard.
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